Has your acne cleared up, but the brown marks it left behind are still there months later?
Or do you feel that, even though you follow your skincare routine consistently, some areas of your face have a different tone and your skin looks dull and uneven?
When this happens, it’s easy to reach straight for brightening products. However, not all dark spots or uneven skin tone concerns have the same origin.
Inflammation caused by acne, repeated sun exposure or the skin’s renewal process are just some of the factors that can play a role.
So, which ingredient does your skin really need?
Why do dark spots and uneven skin tone appear?
Dark marks, or dark spots, appear when certain areas of the skin have a higher concentration of melanin and therefore look darker than the surrounding skin.
On the other hand, uneven skin tone doesn’t necessarily refer to a specific spot, but to an overall look of the skin that is less even, dull or with differences in tone between different areas of the face.
Although at first glance they may seem like similar concerns, their causes can be different.
① Do brown marks remain after your acne clears up?
After a pimple or inflammation goes away, brown or dark marks can remain on the skin.
This is known as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH, Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation).
When the skin becomes inflamed, this process can stimulate melanin production. That’s why, even once the acne has gone, the pigmentation can stay for a while.
If you have frequent breakouts, it’s important not only to care for the marks you already have, but also to keep the cycle of inflammation and new marks under control.
② Do your spots look darker after sun exposure?
UV radiation is one of the main factors that stimulate melanin production in the skin.
When existing dark spots or acne marks are repeatedly exposed to the sun, they can become even more visible.
So if you spend a lot of time outdoors or notice that your skin looks duller after sun exposure, UV radiation could be contributing to those changes in pigmentation.
③ No specific spot, but your whole face looks dull and uneven?
Uneven skin tone isn’t always related only to pigmentation. The overall condition of the skin and its renewal process can also influence how tone and texture look.
In these cases, rather than focusing only on one specific spot, it may be more suitable to work on skin tone and texture as a whole.
On top of that, several of these factors can be at play at the same time.So, which ingredient does my skin need?
There is no single ingredient that is the answer for every kind of dark spot.
First, identify which skin concern bothers you the most.
| If your main concern is… | Look for this ingredient |
|---|---|
| Dull skin and overall uneven tone | Niacinamide |
| Spots and dullness after sun exposure | Vitamin C |
| Acne and post-acne marks at the same time | Azelaic acid |
| Persistent spots and uneven texture | Retinol |
Does your skin look dull and uneven? → Niacinamide
If, rather than one specific spot, you’re bothered that your whole face looks dull and uneven in tone, niacinamide can be an interesting ingredient for your routine.
Niacinamide can influence the process by which melanin is transferred to the keratinocytes on the skin’s surface, which is why it is commonly used to help improve the look of pigmentation and uneven tone.
It can also help maintain the skin barrier, which makes it a good option for those looking for an ingredient they can easily add to their daily routine, instead of relying only on more intensive brightening care.
Recommended if:
✅ Your skin looks dull overall
✅ Your skin tone doesn’t look even
✅ You prefer to avoid an overly intensive brightening routine
✅ You also want to look after your skin barrier
Editor’s Pick
Has your skin had a lot of sun exposure? → Vitamin C
If you’re often in the sun and have noticed your skin looking duller lately, you could consider adding vitamin C to your routine.
Vitamin C is one of the best-known antioxidants in skincare. It can help counter oxidative stress and may also play a part in the processes linked to melanin production.
That’s why it is commonly used to care for visible spots and improve the dull look of skin associated with sun exposure.
💡 TIP: You can use vitamin C in your morning routine and always finish with sunscreen to complete your daily care.
Recommended if:
✅ You spend quite a lot of time outdoors
✅ Your skin looks duller after sun exposure
✅ You want to care for both spots and overall tone
✅ You’re also looking to add antioxidants to your routine
Editor’s Pick
Still getting acne and left with marks too? → Azelaic acid
If every time a pimple disappears a new brown mark appears in its place, focusing only on the pigmentation you already have may not be enough.
This is where azelaic acid (Azelaic Acid) comes in.
Azelaic acid is used both in care for acne-prone skin and to help improve the look of hyperpigmentation
That’s why it deserves special attention if your skin seems stuck in the cycle of “acne → inflammation → new mark”.
If new pimples and inflammation keep appearing, new spots can keep appearing too.
Recommended if:
✅ You have acne and brown marks at the same time
✅ Each pimple tends to leave a mark for a long time
✅ PIH is a concern for you
✅ You want to care for breakouts and skin tone at the same time
Editor’s Pick
Worried about persistent spots and texture too? → Retinol
If, besides pigmentation, you also want to improve your skin’s texture, you could consider retinol.
Retinol can influence the skin’s natural renewal process, which is why it is used to help improve the look of pigmentation and uneven tone.
It can be especially interesting if, besides spots that have been on your skin for a while, you want to care for uneven texture or visible signs of ageing.
One thing to note: if you’ve never used retinol, avoid starting straight away with a very high concentration. It can cause irritation, so it’s better to begin with a low concentration and a reduced frequency of use, letting your skin adjust little by little.
Recommended if:
✅ You’re bothered by spots that have been on your skin for a while
✅ You want to improve both tone and texture
✅ You’re looking to combine brightening and anti-ageing care
Editor’s Pick
Whatever your concern, sunscreen is a must! ☀️
The ingredients you choose may change depending on your skin’s needs, but there is one important step whatever your concern: protecting yourself from the sun.
UV radiation stimulates melanin production and can make existing pigmentation look even more pronounced.
So if you’re caring for dark spots but neglecting sun protection, using brightening ingredients on their own may not be enough to get the results you’re looking for.
Especially if you’re concerned about acne marks, spots or uneven tone, try to make daily use of an adequate amount of sunscreen part of your routine.
Caring for the spots you already have is important, but preventing pigmentation from getting more intense is also part of skincare.
(☀️ Tip: How to use sunscreen correctly?)
① Use a sufficient amount
Applying too little sunscreen can reduce the protection you get. For the face and neck, you can use two lines of product along your index and middle fingers as a guide and spread it evenly.
② Reapply every 2 hours when you’re outdoors
If you’re going to spend several hours in the sun, reapply sunscreen roughly every 2 hours. If you’ve been swimming or sweating a lot, reapply sooner.
③ Don’t forget the areas we tend to overlook
Besides your face, remember to apply sunscreen to exposed areas such as the ears, the neck and the hairline.
So, what’s the takeaway for today?
When it comes to dark spots, what matters isn’t automatically using the most popular brightening ingredient.
A good starting point is to understand why your tone doesn’t look even and choose an ingredient suited to that concern.
✔️ Dull skin and uneven tone → Niacinamide
✔️ Spots and dullness from sun exposure → Vitamin C
✔️ Acne + post-acne marks → Azelaic acid
✔️ Persistent spots + uneven texture → Retinol
And whichever ingredient you choose, there’s one thing you shouldn’t forget:
protect your skin from UV radiation with sunscreen. ☀️
At Piyonna you can find a wide variety of K-Beauty products for your skin’s needs and the ingredients you’re looking for.
Now that you know which ingredient may suit your skin best, find the right products and start building a skincare routine tailored to you
References
- Elbuluk N, et al. Acne-Induced Post-inflammatory Hyperpigmentation. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2021.
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/34468934/ -
Topical Treatment for Postinflammatory Hyperpigmentation: A Systematic Review. 2021.
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/34525885/ - Correia G, Magina S. Efficacy of Topical Vitamin C in Melasma and Photoaging: A Systematic Review. 2023.
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/37128827/ -
Efficacy of Azelaic Acid: A Systematic Review. 2023.
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/37550898/ -
Topical Retinoids in the Treatment of Pigmentary Disorders.
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/19489658/
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